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Southern Queensland: Hits & Giggles Print E-mail
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Tuesday, 10 January 2006

Notes on my first visit to southern coastal Queensland, aka Australia's Florida:

The comparison, incidentally, is explicit in many places here: just down the road, on a long stretch of beach that hotel marketers have long dubbed the Gold Coast, you can find a Miami and a Palm Springs and at least a score of businesses which have taken Florida-themed names for themselves. 

The heart of the Gold Coast is a community lined with dozens of sky-obliterating hotel and condo high-rises, where traffic on the main drag is reminiscent of Highway A1A during rush hour.  There are plenty of beautiful people, and about as many people who were beautiful about seventy years ago.  Casinos and golf courses are going in; vestigal traces of whatever was there before are going out.  It's expensive, it's crowded, and it's one of the least-natural-feeling places I've seen on the east coast of Australia, which has dozens and dozens of fabulous beaches.

This community is called, with a straight face, Surfers Paradise.  And it's booming.  People love it.  So go figure.  Keep driving, and there are also Florida-style amusement and water parks alongside a big American-style freeway dotted with familiar fast food franchises at every exit.

The transition from New South Wales to Queensland is more abrupt than several international borders I've crossed.  The Gold Coast and its glitz begins right at the very edge of Queensland, literally the minute you leave New South Wales, after a drive of about ten hours through pacific Pacific resort towns mixed with long stretches of forest and open farmland, punctuated by occasional spectacular examples of 1950s-America-style Giant Thing To Get You To Stop At A Particular Tourist Trap Art, including 10-story windmills, golf balls, and even bananas promising a view of the coastline.

I suspect the abruptness of the state border is actually part of why almost every NSWer I've met has a negative impression of Queensland, which is spoken of the way people in Los Angeles often generalize about Texas.  There are other reasons, too, as I've now had explained to me by several friendly Queenslanders (whom I suspect do not go by the nicko "Queenies," but I haven't asked).  There's a bit more religious right-wingitiness up here, and the econony and politics and therefore the environment have historically been a bit more in the hands of developers.  Like I said: Florida.

But I only know what I'm told, and what I've been told has come from yet another bunch of mind-spinningly friendly people.  That certainly hasn't changed.

I learned this last night, after I went to a cricket match at Woolloongabba.

Digressing for a second: I am endlessly impressed by the way Australians manage dozens of six-syllable aboriginal place names which seem interchangeable to the untrained ear.  Highway directions here are particularly fantastic.  I have actually pretended to be lost twice now, just to enjoy the response, which is usually something like "just keep going until you reach Wallawallabingbang, make a right onto Gabbagabbahey, make sure you go past Ramalamadingdong, and then take the first left at Inagaddadavida.  If you see the Giant Prawn, you've gone too far."

So last night, I went to this cricket match, which was actually a hyperspeed version of cricket called Twenty20.  "Hyperspeed," of course, applied to cricket, results in... a perfectly normal sporting event.  It takes about two and a half hours, the players bowl and hit the crap out of the ball, there are lots of cheers and screams, and everyone goes home deliriously happy.  Contrasted with traditional cricket tests, in which the 5-day weather forecast can actually play a hand in strategy, and it seems like entirely too much... oh, what's the word? ah, yes -- fun.

Thus the game has already acquired an affectionate nicko, "Hits & Giggles," just one letter removed from a similar phrase indicating pointlessness.

I cannot tell you how disturbing traditionalists seem to find this: "Cricket that only takes three hours?  Are you mad, sir?  Why, yes, children might like it, and women and Americans, but it could corrupt the purity of the gentlemen's batting strokes!  This will not doNow be a good man, grasp my jodhpurs, and heft; I'm having difficulty mounting my pennyfarthing ever since that Boer shot me in the Transvaal."

Last night's match was the first international Twenty20 match ever held on Australian soil.  Sadly for men with handlebar mustaches, it attracted a massive overflow sellout crowd of over 38,000 people, the largest cricket audience in the history of Woolloongabba.

Obviously, this naive idea of spectator sports as entertainment is clearly just a passing fad.  And yet for some reason I am hoarse from cheering, and I suspect thousands of other people are, too.  (Still, the sports sections of the newspapers this morning were filled with ponderous columns urging the cricket lords here not to give the public too much more of this thing it likes, which would obviously be very bad.)

So with the free city buses (yes, free, they do that here for big events; you can also take a river bus thingy called the CityCat all the way across town for about two bucks, and it's a gorgeous ride) overwhelmed by the surprising crowd, I and thousands of other Twenty20 fans decided simply to walk the few kilometers back into downtown, despite the late hour and Eighty80 (temperature and humidity) weather.

You'd think that heat, fatigue, and alcohol might make such an unexpected march unpleasant.  Nope.  Instead, I was quickly gang-befriended by a small clot of cricket-hyped guys who invited me to break the hike by joining them for a few beers.  Next thing you know, I'm in a comfy tavern under a bridge on the river, learning from an engineer who has studied the issue how the weather here affects brewing chemistry.

I literally cannot walk down the street here without making new and interesting friends.

It's not perfect, of course.  There are growing environmental problems, and Oz doesn't recycle nearly enough, and a lot of aborigines are still in a fix, and Brisbane is entirely too hot to support human life, which I forgot to mention.  (It certainly seems true.  If you plan on visiting Queensland during the summer, first make sure you are a reptile.  I cannot urge this strongly enough.)

Also, there are sharks, and sometimes they eat people.  If you are even vaguely familiar with 1970s Spielberg, you'll need me to promise this is true: a pretty young girl was just munched out at a place called Amity Point.  Now -- again, I swear -- there are men out looking for the shark that did this.

(Memo to the captain: whatever you do, do not let the shark bite the boat.  If you still feel you must, at least make sure you have an oxygen tank and a flare gun handy beforehand.  Not after.  Trust me.)

Still, I could spend the rest of my life quite happily in Brisbane.  Seriously.

Especially if I wake up tomorrow as a born-again reptile who enjoys driving in heavy traffic.  Not saying that's required.  It's pretty damn nice here anyway.  Just saying.  It would definitely put Brisbane right over the top.



 
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